OK, I promised you a blog about the Key West chickens – sometimes referred to as “Gypsy Chickens”. Didn’t think it would be so soon, did you? Neither did I. Blame it on creative enthusiasm. I’m on a roll.
Awhile back, we had a newlywed bride that came to the office at The Tropical Inn, almost in tears. She had planned the perfect honeymoon, choosing our most private accommodation, the Pineapple Hideaway. But she wasn’t happy.
Never mind the rose petals on the bed, the chilled champagne in the bucket, and chocolate-dipped strawberries awaiting her arrival. Never mind the romantic private patio garden with Jacuzzi-for-two under the stars. Never mind, for crying out loud, the excitement of being a newlywed!
What she hadn’t planned on were the chickens (specifically, the roosters). They had awakened her and her new husband each morning at some hour before they planned to be up. And she considered that decidedly un-romantic.
It’s estimated that there are 2,000-3,000 chickens roaming this little two-by-four spit of coral rock that we call home. I can only wonder how she missed that fact when planning what one would presume to be the most important vacation of her life. I mean, aren’t brides all about detail? Didn’t that fact give rise to the term, “Bridezilla”, into which they transform when all things don’t go exactly as choreographed?
How did she miss this little bit of information?
Anyway … about the chickens. Ever visited other Caribbean islands, where not only chickens — but dogs, goats, and other assorted livestock — run wild? Don’t know about you, but my first experience with that, I considered to be part of the local color … the stuff you travel to experience. “You won’t see that back in Peoria”, as we are fond of saying.
There is no denying that tourism — the major industry of Key West — has benefited from this funky bit of island culture. The chickens have become iconic – another of the many attractions in Key West. In fact, of all the restaurants in Key West, one in particular – Blue Heaven — has made the chickens a decided draw. There, they roost in the spreading branches of almond and Spanish lime trees over the tables during dinner and peck away under them for fallen morsels at breakfast.
Today’s Gypsy Chickens are descendants of domestic fowl brought over the high seas by settlers in the 1800’s. Rumor has it that theirs is a heritage of prize fighting game cocks. Or maybe their lineage can be traced to simple backyard coops, where they were kept for eggs and an occasional Sunday dinner.
Whatever their origin, these scrappy critters are completely self-sufficient — and amazingly streetwise (NEVER have I seen one that has met their demise there!). Some consider them an invasive species, feasting on indigenous lizards as they forage through lovingly nurtured gardens. Others recognize the role they play in keeping the local insect population under control.
Over the years, their population has expanded, and in 2004, they became the subject of controversy bordering on war between those who consider the birds a part of Key West’s historic character and those who view them as a nuisance and just plain want them gone. In a move that might be called an “only in Key West” solution, the city hired a local man to serve as “official chicken catcher”. He was to capture and deport the birds to a free-range farm on the mainland. Amid speculation that the birds were secretly being killed, local pro-chicken factions tampered with traps and otherwise interfered with the round-up. The chicken-catcher position was soon dissolved.
This saga brings to mind another bit of local color: while you are here, and you get a craving for some really great fried chicken (not feral, of course), do what the locals do (heads up — insider tip coming!): head for the nearest Dion’s gas station. Yes, gas station.
Really. That’s where you will find the best, lip-smacking, eat-it-outta-the-bag-on-your-way-home chicken. This stuff would bring tears to the eyes of that white-haired, soul-patched, Kentucky gentleman who made “finger lickin’ good” a catch phrase.
Trust me here … when in Key West, get your chicken fix at Dion’s.
Hmm. That was a little disjointed train of associative thought. Whatever.
We love the Key West chickens. Some don’t. Sorry they don’t get it.
Just like Key West, there is “something for everyone”, from funky coconut bowling to fine wine tastings designed to curl the pinkie finger of the most discriminating connoisseur.
Spotted on several occasions were thick socks with flip flops (and not those stupid “toe socks”; no, I mean regular socks stuffed down between the big toe and its smaller siblings – ouch!). Multiple layers of hopelessly dated sweaters are the order of the day … along with moth-eaten hats with those funny ear flaps brought along when fleeing the Real World for Paradise’s sunny shores – just in case a ski vacation might be in the future. One resourceful soul was seen shopping at Publix in full Santa suit because it was the warmest thing he owns (true story)!
Our ubiquitous iguanas have been immobilized by the cold, seen sunning on fences and roadsides in a primal drive to absorb heat. Turtles in the ocean were cold-stunned, the fortunate ones being rescued and warmed in kiddie pools at the Turtle Hospital up on Marathon. Today, fish litter the beaches near White Street Pier, the result of of a massive cold kill.
The Southernmost Elves have been hard at work, cooking up a festive holiday season to banish the ghosts of all Christmases Past!
If you were lucky enough to be spending the Thanksgiving holidays in Key West, you perhaps joined the festivities to kick off the 2009 holiday season with the lighting of the Key West “Harbor Walk of Lights” at what we locals call “The Bight” and may appear on your map as “Historic Seaport”. The switch was flipped on thousands of holiday lights lining the Historic Seaport Harbor Walk, which runs for four blocks along the waterfront where Green, William, Margaret, and Grinnell Streets meet the Gulf of Mexico. The lights will sparkle on the water every night through New Years night.
Shortly after sunset, the Harbor Walk of Lights will become complete with the lighting of four Southernmost Christmas Trees, one located at each plaza along the Harbor Walk and one in the Key West Ferry Terminal. The smell of natural pines mingling with the tang of salty sea breeze is unique to a Caribbean Christmas.
If you’re “of a certain age”, you probably grumble about how much more meaningful Christmas used to be. You know, before TV commercials and internet ads moved the gifting frenzy to late summer. Back when everyone in town turned out to see the local high school band march down Main Street in the annual Christmas parade.
Sunday, December 6: Schooner Wharf Tree Trimming Party 5 PM
Saturday, December 12: Annual Lighted Boat Parade
Friday & Saturday, December 18 & 19: Holiday Historic Inn Tour 5:30 to 8PM
At the stroke of midnight, take your pick: the countdown lowering of the Giant Conch Shell at Sloppy Joe’s, the drop of the Pirate Wench from a 110-foot sailboat mast at Schooner Wharf, or the descent of local drag queen, Sushi, in the Red High Heel, in the 700 block of Duval Street. No matter the venue, don’t be surprised to see CNN cameras hovering! Key West has in recent years become a media darling, vying with New york’s Times Square, as Old Year meets New in the Conch Republic. 
Oh, my gosh! Only ten days left until Goombay, the kickoff weekend of our annual extravaganza, Fantasy Fest! Like Mardi Gras in New Orleans and Carnival in Rio, it’s a legendary 10-day party that no lifetime should go without experiencing! To paraphrase a local saying, “If you haven’t done Key West for Fantasy Fest, you haven’t done Key West!”
Each year, the celebration grows, bringing tens of thousands of visitors to Duval Street for the grand finale parade. Coinciding with Halloween night this year, it promises to be an even more exciting time than usual. Leading up to it is a 10-day party, with increasingly elaborate and high-energy events, building in excitement by the day. Click
On Saturday night, we enjoy the grand finale parade by treating our guests to a complimentary open bar of top-shelf libations and a gourmet buffet (no need to scramble for that mass-produced street food for dinner!), which starts early and remains available throughout the parade. Each is assured an uncrowded place on the Duval Street porches for parade viewing, from which they revel in being an integral part of the extravaganza, caught up in the pulsing, vibrant atmosphere. The upstairs veranda is especially popular, with guests throwing and receiving airborne strings of beads with each parade entry as it passes by, ”close enough to touch”. All the while, they have the convenience of their rooms near at hand and the ability to freshen their drinks and take in the festivities just above the crush of the crowd.
The Florida Keys have been called “the greatest natural vortex lab in the world”. Waterspouts occur more frequently here than anywhere else. It has been estimated that the waters around the Keys, especially from Marathon to Key West and westward to the Dry Tortugas, host up to 500 waterspouts a year. They are so common that most go unreported unless they cause damage.
Waterspouts can be especially problematic to boaters because they may be relatively transparent and initially visible only by the unusual “dark spot” on the water that is a sign of a spiraling funnel of air. Even though it is sometimes invisible in the early stages, a vortex is reaching the ocean surface from the cloud. When the wind speeds reach around 40 mph, the wind begins to kick up spray in a circular pattern — the spray vortex.
Thirty-seven years ago, Phil Peterson came up with the idea of a poker run to boost the motorcycle business, and the Key West tourist trade during the slow September season. What started with 46 riders has grown to become South Florida’s biggest motorcycle party weekend of the year. Today, more than 10,000 riders from all over the U.S. enjoy this event. They rumble from Miami to Key West, enjoying the sunshine, ocean breezes, and riding on the many bridges that cross over the beautiful turquoise water.
Along the way, they make five stops and draw a card at each stop. The winner is the lucky rider who draws the best hand. This year, if you draw one of the top ten hands, you get a chance to play one round of Texas Hold’em at The Guy Harvey Bar & Grill, located on Greene Street, across from Sloppy Joes. The Round will begin Saturday Night at 11:00 p.m., featuring a winner take all, a brand new Sportster 883 Custom! The City of Key West blocks off an eight-block area of Duval Street. A bike show is held in front of Rick’s/ Durty Harry’s and Sloppy Joe’s Bar on Saturday. Locals, tourists, and bikers all enjoy the sights and sounds of this mini-Mardi Gras with its carnival atmosphere, music, food, cold Budweiser, and Cola-Cola.
Everyone benefits, because over the years, these bikers have brought millions of dollars to the Key West economy and charities like the Diabetes Research Foundation, and the Key West Sunrise Rotary Club, who have collected hundreds of thousands of dollars for their worthy causes. If motorcycles ever had a bad reputation with some people, this long-time charity event has gone a long way to giving riders credibility and respect.
If you are a photographer or nature lover, you will revel in the extraordinary atmospheric displays that reliably occur.
So, how was your staycation?